Monday, October 14, 2013

GIFTS FROM THE SEA


Necklace image from the book Imperishable Beauty 
by Yvonne Markowitz and Elyse Karlin (MFA publications, 2008) 

In honor of the crossing of the Santa Maria, Pinta, Niña (and, heck, Leif Ericson, and Pocahontas too), we're posting one of our favorite Arts and Crafts whimsies: a circa 1903 nautical collar necklace depicting a fleet of galleons with dogtooth pearl sails, encircled by stylized sea monsters with dolphin heads, scallop shells and cattails—emblems of lust (and, perhaps, a warning for those navigating shallows close to shore). The choker necklace was retailed by salon jeweler F. Walter Lawrence, and likely wrought by Lawrence's favorite goldsmith, Gustav Manz—whose Maiden Lane workshop was a stone's throw from South Street Seaport. Below: gouache design drawing from Manz's design archive for a ring with dolphins and seaweed fronds (private collection); cattails detail from the nautical collar next to detail from a Manz brooch from the same period.






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Copyright © Laura Mathews, 2014 

All Rights Reserved 
 GUSTAV MANZ LLC
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