ELEPHANTS IN THE ROOM: A JEWELER GETS HIS DUE

A jewelry designer and maker who supplied such firms as Marcus & Co., Tiffany, Dreicer & Co., and Black Starr & Frost, Gustav Manz did not sign or mark most of his work. A few of his known pieces from the early decades of the 20th century are now on view at Forbes Galleries, for the first time with labels bearing his own name. Along with these rediscovered gems, show curator Elyse Karlin (co-author of Imperishable Beauty) has brought together 200 pieces fashioned by other artisans, celebrated and anonymous, each representing the aesthetic styles that emerged during the Arts and Crafts period.

Circa 1920s carved gold elephant clip designed and executed by Gustav Manz, on view at Forbes Galleries International Art Jewelry 1895-1925 show 
Mathews Family Collection

Photo: Joe Gold

Manz's expertise as a carver is evident in a sterling silver handbag frame featuring mermaids in a waterlily pond, produced for the Union Square jewelry salon of F. Walter Lawrence (a former associate at Marcus & Co) and documented in a studio photograph taken at Manz's workshop on Maiden Lane; in a gold brooch from a descendant's collection depicting a maple leaf spray with whirligigs; and in a gold elephant dress clip, shown above, set with cabochon jade, sapphire, and ruby stones—versions of which were created for Lawrence, Cartier, and others, according to letters in Manz's archive at Winterthur. Each of these precious objects reflects painstaking attention to detail by Manz and the workers in his employ, whose output enhanced the reputation of some of America's most esteemed gem merchants. 

We welcome all comments and invite you to follow us on Facebook, Instagram and gustavmanz.com

Copyright © 2011 All Rights Reserved 

GUSTAV MANZ LLC