NEW DESIGNS FOR NEW WOMEN

In January 1924, the 8th Industrial Art Exhibition opened at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The show was assembled by Richard F. Bach, the museum's first decorative arts curator specifically charged with facilitating professional artisans access to the Met's collections "for the betterment of American design and craftsmanship." 

A review of the exhibit in Jewelers' Circular featured a photo of one of Gustav Manz's Tutankhamun-inspired necklaces—at least one of which was purchased by Raymond C. Yard. Also shown was a Manz ring depicting a panther or tiger confronting a snake in the style of French sculptor Antoine Barye, that was carried by (seemingly) every jewelry house in the city including Tiffany & Company. 

Panther & Snake Ring sold to Tiffany & Co,1913

 Gustav Manz costbook, Winterthur Museum

Several of Manz's longtime wholesale clients were also exhibitors, notably Tiffany & Co ("beautiful display of silver and gold ware"), Cartier New York ("silver and utility pieces as well as ornaments"), and the Gorham Manufacturing Company ("a beautiful silver urn...and similar articles of hollowware"). 

Besides drawing from his Egyptian and animal repertoire, Manz's case contained ornaments that, in the reviewer's words, "follow very distinctly the Oriental type" and were likely quite similar to the jade and sapphire Buddha brooch in the illustration, one of numerous Asian-inspired pieces Tiffany & Co. purchased from Manz's studio. 

During this period, Manz's 19-year-old daughter Doris worked as his commission agent and undoubtedly advised him about styles and motifs most appealing to the post-war era's New Woman. In the photo above, she's wearing her father's jade "earvices" which dangle just below her flapper bob...