Tuesday, January 24, 2012

AMERICAN BEAUTIES


Sally James Farnham posed in front of a Peacock Screen, circa 1906, for this portrait by her cousin Charles Chapman, a Manz neighbor in the Leonia, New Jersey artists colony. Image courtesy Michael Reed, sallyjamesfarnham.org


Gustav Manz's jewelry log records sale of a Zodiac Band Ring to "Mrs. Farnham" in 1916. Sally James Farnham had recently separated from husband Paulding Farnham, whose neoclassical jewelry and metalwork designs for Tiffany & Co won the firm accolades at many international exhibitions.  Farnham was undoubtedly aware of Manz's jewelry as his workshop supplied Tiffany and other fine jewelers around town. Gustav and Sally were both animalier sculptors, so there was a personal as well as professional acquaintance. 





Ink on parchment sketch for a zodiac ring 
Gustav Manz ledger, circa 1916-1917
Image (c) Gustav Manz LLC


The Zodiac ring echoed the fancy cigarette case Farnham had presented to her husband for his 42nd birthday in November 1901; the couple shared the same birth month (Sally's birthday fell on November 26), and the case incorporated both the Farnham crest carved into a cabochon sapphire centered on one side paired with a beautifully modeled Centaur aiming his bow and arrow on the other—an allusion to Sally's astrological sign and passion for horses. 





Gold, silver, sapphire cigarette case inscribed "Paulding Farnham New York from S.J.F., Nov. 6, 1901. Interior marked Tiffany & Co. Image Sotheby''s


A few years after receiving the cigarette case, Paulding Farnham resigned from Tiffany & Co, and moved out west, where he mounted a second career as a maritime painter and made unlucky investments in mining. Left with three children to support, Sally filed for divorce on grounds of abandonment (granted in 1915), and stepped up her productivity—helped along by good connections (Frederic Remington was a mentor), and public interest in the the novelty of a socially prominent mother of three getting her hands into clay and plaster. As the Gilded Age waned, the Sculptress got busy.

The year 1916 began inauspiciously when the statue she'd proposed for a public garden in Philadelphia, depicting astronomer and inventor David Rittenhouse, was cancelled due to the death of the monument's primary financial backer. Her big break came in August 1916, when she won a $24,000 commission to create a monument to Simon Bolivar. Her scheme for a statue of the liberator of the Spanish colonies dressed in full military regalia, astride a horse lifting its hoof, beat out a field of 20 artists. 


Perhaps the Manz Zodiac ring was a gift to herself in her 46th year.




She's got the horse right here: Farnham stands under Bolivar statue
 in a borrowed studio. The sculpture currently stands sentry near Artists' Gate in Central Park at 59th Street and Avenue of the Americas
Image: Smithsonian Institution, Peter A. Juley & Son Collection



As the Bolivar monument was unveiled, art critic Alexander Woollcott enthused that the work was "the [largest] by a woman which history anywhere records"; more noteworthy was Farnham's lack of experience, in comparison with the other entrants: "The great Bolivar is the work of an unschooled, self-taught artist who never had a lesson in her life and, what is more, it is the work of one who was a grown woman, the mother of two children, before she did her first modeling; indeed before the idea of being a sculptor at all ever entered her much-preoccupied head..." (More on Sally's career at Smithsonian blog.) 

Farnham and Woollcott were chummy with another prominent female artist of the 1920s, Neysa McMein, whose pastel portraits of modern American girls were in demand for magazine covers and advertising campaigns. Perhaps it was Farnham who suggested Gustav's daughter Doris pose for one of McMein's covers for McCall's famous series capturing the diverse "types" of American beauty (a pseudo-ethnographic campaign sparked, no doubt, by the resurgence of eugenics movements following the first world war). McMein cast (or miscast) fair-haired Doris, child of German immigrant parents from the Black Forest region, as "The Scandinavian Beauty."




Neysa McMein finishing a  cover illustration for McCall's magazine. In 1936, McMein designed the first official image of Betty Crocker.
Photo: Grapefruit Moon Gallery 


Doris had entered the family business at age 17 or younger, initially as sales rep for her father then as a diamond broker selling stones to Cartier, young Harry Winston, and Black Starr & Frost. Ggrowing up in Leonia, New Jersey, she'd posed for Sally Farnham's cousin, the artst Charles Shepard Chapman—a Manz neighbor and co-founder of the Leonia School of Illustration. McMein's portrait captures Doris as she must have looked seated on a train bound for Chicago or Hot Springs or Palm Beach, carrying a suitcase of her father's jewelry samples, her own business card, and a snappy sales pitch. Hoping, perhaps, that on the way she'd meet a dashing Centaur of her own.






At 20, Manz's younger daughter, Doris, posed for Neysa McMein's "American Beauty" series. Her portrait appeared on the November 1924 cover


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Copyright © 2014

All Rights Reserved 
 GUSTAV MANZ LLC
__________________________________________

Our thanks as always to Kay Olson Freeman for insights about Farnham's work and to Michael Reed, director of the Sally James Farnham website, for sharing sketches possibly related to Farnham's submission to the Philadelphia public monument competition.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

LOOK BOOK: HOW TO SPOT JEWELRY BY GUSTAV MANZ


ASJH NEWSLETTER, SUMMER 2011

On April 7, 2011, The American Society of Jewelry Historians invited Courtney Bowers-Marhev to speak to members about the jewelry of Gustav Manz, whose work she first encountered as a graduate student in Parsons-Cooper Hewitt's Masters Program in the History of Decorative Arts. Estate jewelry expert Diana Singer subsequently provided highlights from Bowers-Marhev's slideshow in the ASJH summer newsletter, along with some tips for Manz spotting:

"....It is important to note that, in those days—unlike today, where the designer/manufacturer often aggressively courts and markets directly to the consumer—it was unthinkable for the skilled wholesaler to directly approach the retail client unless specifically invited to do so. Prominent retail stores such as those previously named often sold pieces made by Gustav Manz, and marked them as their own works. Only someone familiar with his inimitable style would have any idea he was the genius responsible for the jewel, and not the retail establishment. What, then, are the characteristics of Gustav Manz's style, and how does the trained eye recognize it? The roots of Manz's style lay firmly in the Art Nouveau movement, replete with animal motifs, valutes, foliate motifs, and often Gothic or eastern motifs. All were highly detailed and sculptured, often steeped in the sensualism reminiscent of Auguste Rodin's sculptures. Animals and the figures pulse with volume and life, as if springing out from the jewel. A favorite subject used in many instances was that of the panther, a motif that became well-known in the hands of Cartier's Jeanne Toussaint. Animal pins were a major part of his design sensibility; the claws found on the dragons, panthers, and lions are highly articulated and full of strength. Spectacularly ornate and rendered wings adorn the birds of prey, dragons, and peacocks. Plant life, including leaves, branches, lily pads, and lotuses all have deeply modeled and etched surfaces. Charming dog pins and stickpins were a part of the entourage as well, with the finely chased surfaces often set with tiny diamonds. In addition, Egyptian motifs figured prominently in his designs, many of which were retailed by Tiffany & Co. in the 1920s. Eastern motifs were explored in the 1920s as well, some of which included dragons, pagodas, and serene Buddhas..." 

Images from Bowers-Marhev's slideshow and private collections:



Manz stockbook entry for a panther and snake ring with a star sapphire, sold to Moore & Mason in May, 1925 (Winterthur); Manz's panther and snake designs were exhibited at the St. Louis World's Fair and the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Eighth Annual Industrial Art show 
Photo (c) Gustav Manz LLC



A panther and snake ring, circa 1910. Unsigned, attributed to Gustav Manz; Manz's design book also features tigers and lions in crouching poses or emerging from fronds of savannah grass
Image courtesy Skinner Inc. 




Gustav Manz costbook sketch for a "Gold Star Sapphire Sphinx Ring" 
sold to Marcus & Company, in June 1916. 



A variation on the Egyptian-inspired jewelry Manz created for the St. Louis Exposition in 1904 (below), his sphinx and pyramid mounting attracted orders from T. Kirkpatrick, Brand Chatillon, Bailey Banks & Biddle and others

Winterthur Library


Manz stockbook record for "fancy sapps + gold grape broche" sold to Tiffany & Company, November 1922 
Manz stockbook, Winterthur Library




Gold grapevine cuff set with colored stones by Gustav Manz
 for Tiffany & Company
 Private collection


Buddha ring settings by Gustav Manz, c 1923 
Sold to Tiffany & Co. and Shreve, 
Crump & Low
Manz stockbook, Winterthur Library



Jade, enamel, and ruby Buddha earring, ca 1920s
Designed and manufactured by Gustav Manz 
Private collection 
Photo (c) Gustav Manz LLC


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Copyright ©  2014 

All Rights Reserved 
 GUSTAV MANZ LLC
__________________________________________

For details on upcoming ASJH events, contact Meg Selig at info@jewelryhistorians.org


Monday, January 9, 2012

WAITING TO CROSS: Elephant in the Big Apple

 Photographed at Museum of Art and Design, NYC, 6pm, Saturday, January 7, 2012. 
The elephant is part of a public sculpture exhibit by Peter Woytuck
Photo (c) Gustav Manz LLC 
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Copyright © Laura Mathews, 2014 

All Rights Reserved 
 GUSTAV MANZ LLC
__________________________________________

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

INTO THE WILD, CIRCA 1912: Follow That Bull Moose Pin

"Pinterest" circa 1912: Celluloid and brass campaign button 
supporting Teddy Roosevelt's Bull-Moose Party 
Maker: Unknown

Around the time Leon Leonwood Bean was developing a market for his duck boot, Gustav Manz's workshop was turning out figural Moose and Grizzly Bear lapel pins by the dozens for the same gents to wear on their return from hunting trips in Maine. Manz's circa 1910, 14k gold moose scarf or tie-pin attracted orders from loyal retail clients like Gorham, Marcus & Co, Tiffany, Black Starr & Frost, Bigelow, Kennard and Chicago jeweler Ferdinand Hotz. Manz's stockbooks allude to elk, deer and mountain sheep as well. An entry form for the St. Louis Exposition in 1904 indicates a gold "Moose" pendant carved by Gustav Manz was sent to the exhibit (the word "Moose" is crossed out and overwritten with "Deer" suggesting a last minute substitution, or perhaps a case of mistaken identity corrected when the piece arrived from New York). 



















An entry in Manz's ledger, above, shows numerous sales of a moose scarfpin between 1910 and 1912. Below: Manz's gouache rendering of a pendant-brooch design featuring the head of a moose (or perhaps a Black Forest stag) within an oak leaf surround. Drawing (c) Gustav Manz LLC



At the time of L.L. Bean's death, in 1967, his mail-order sporting goods concern was worth $3.5 million; this year, the company celebrates its 100th anniversary while duck boots currently occupy Wall Street... And we wonder: where have all those jaunty Bull-Moose tie-tacks gone?


L.L. Bean grandson Leon Gorman 
(c) LL Bean


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Copyright © Laura Mathews | 
All Rights Reserved 
 GUSTAV MANZ LLC
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