EARLOOMS: Jewelry Talk by Art Nouveau Expert Ben Macklowe

Fun slide-show hosted by ASJH at Fashion Institute last night. Benjamin Macklowe, Vice President at Macklowe Gallery, explained the idiosyncrasies of Art Nouveau style. For example: nouveau designers (1890-1910) produced few earrings: The mermaid locks favored by the era's beauties often obscured their ears, so artists focused on visible ornaments—figural necklaces and horn combs decorated with coyly mating dragonflies and writhing snakes (hard to miss). And if one should stumble on a rare pair of antique earvices labeled nouveau? They may be pendants that got converted, says Ben. 

"Listen, listen, said the mermaid to the prince"

Illustration by H.J. Ford, early 20th C

An exception to the ear rule, these c.1905 Egyptian revival pendant earrings bear the retail mark of F. Walter Lawrence and were most likely designed and wrought by his favorite goldsmith Gustav Manz. They are on view with other examples of Manz's work at The Forbes Galleries' International Art Jewelry: 1895-1925 exhibition through March 17, 2012.

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Copyright © Laura Mathews, 2014 
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