Tuesday, December 20, 2016

HAVE BRACELETS, WILL TRAVEL



"The world must be peopled..."
—William Shakespeare
Much Ado About Nothing

...also elephanted, lioned, and rhinoed!
Which is why we share proceeds from our special edition bracelet with the wildlive conservation and environmental organization Tusk

To place an order or learn more more about Gustav Manz jewelry for Tusk, please contact gustavmanz@gmail.com 


_________________________________________
We welcome comments, and invite you to follow us on Facebook, Instagram and gustavmanz.com

Copyright © 2016 All Rights Reserved 
GUSTAV MANZ LLC

Saturday, December 10, 2016

GIVE AN INCH...


HEADS OR TAILS, THE WILDLIFE WINS


Our coin pendant is handcrafted in sterling — and every purchase supports TUSK!


PRICE ON REQUEST AT 
GUSTAVMANZ.COM

____________________________________________________________________
We welcome comments, and invite you to follow us on Facebook, Instagram and gustavmanz.com

Copyright © 2016 All Rights Reserved 
GUSTAV MANZ LLC

Sunday, November 13, 2016

ANCIENT, MODERN AND ORIENTAL



The Great Buddha (Daibutsu) monument 
Kamakura, Japan, 1923. The statue was originally gold-plated and housed inside a temple 
Image courtesy periodpaper.com

One of Gustav Manz's popular mountings features a Buddha seated inside a lotus decorated pavilion. An 18k gold version shown here was modeled, cast, chased, set, finished and polished in Manz's New York studio at 2 West 47th Street. The center ruby was furnished "on memo" by an antiques dealer named Barkhy H. Mirzy, a former jeweler and Armenian-Turkish emigre from Lebanon who specialized in oriental goods. 



"Just... breathe..."
  Water-color on parchment rendering for a 1923
finger ring; image from Manz & Co costbooks
Winterthur Museum, Joseph Downs Collection


According to a notation in Manz's stockbook, Tiffany & Company bought the ring on September 25, 1923, just three weeks after a major earthquake struck Japan. The quake rocked the ancient city of Kamakura, where an enormous bronze statue of the Buddha—weighing 93 tonnes—shifted a distance of two feet! Whether the timing of the Tiffany purchase was an act of karma or just coincidence, the piece was just one of hundreds of rings, brooches, bracelets and cufflinks Manz designed and his artisans crafted for the store's jewelry department in the post-World War I decade.


Below, lotus detail from one of Manz's
 jewelry renderings from the 1920s
Winterthur Museum, Joseph Downs Collection




_________________________________________
We welcome comments, and invite you to follow us on Facebook, Instagram and gustavmanz.com

Copyright © 2016 All Rights Reserved 

GUSTAV MANZ LLC



Monday, October 31, 2016

CAT CROSSING



Here's one of Gustav Manz's most charming cats, with its back up in classic feline style. According to German folk myth, if a kitty crosses your path from right to left watch out. But if it saunters past from left to right expect good fortune. 


Manz naturally pointed his feline in the more favorable direction, as a stock design in the early 1900s—possibly in the form of a scarf pin or cufflink; he later adapted the outline for the tabby half of a cat-and-dog diamond jabot brooch retailed by Black, Starr & Frost in the mid-1920s. 

Happy Halloween and watch out for cats crossing! 



_____________________________________________________________
We welcome comments, and invite you to follow us on Facebook, Instagram and gustavmanz.com

Copyright © 2016 All Rights Reserved 
GUSTAV MANZ LLC

Wednesday, July 27, 2016

GAME OF STONES: GOTHIC-REVIVAL MEETS DECO



Taking measure of our favorite bracelet from last weekend's New York Antique Jewelry and Watch Show. Attributed to Gustav Manz—though we could easily imagine it coming straight off the wrist of the Mother of Dragons—this articulated dazzler was purchased from the old Manhattan firm of T. Kirkpatrick & Co., then passed down through a prominent New York family in its original fitted case. While we often highlight Manz's arts and crafts showpieces and fine gold work, he also produced platinum and diamond jewelry for wholesale customers. (More on T. Kirkpatrick in earlier post: Deco Dragons.)
_________________________________________
We welcome comments, and invite you to follow us on Facebook, Instagram and gustavmanz.com

Copyright © 2016 All Rights Reserved 

GUSTAV MANZ LLC

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

DROMEDARIES & LAPIDARIES: A JEWELER'S DESERT FANTASY


Gustav Manz's scenic "Desert Brooch" (c. 1901-3) traveled to some notable venues, including the National Arts Club and the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis, Missouri. According to the entry form submitted to the Exposition by jeweler and exhibitor F. Walter Lawrence (who commissioned the piece), the fragment of "Phoenician glass" framed by miniature palms and a train of camels came out of the Old City of Jerusalem.

More astonishing, that ancient city itself would be replicated on ten acres of the fairground, featuring 1:1 scale models of the Wailing Wall, Tower of David, and a cast of Moslem, Christian, and Jewish concessionaires hired to walk around in traditional garb herding livestock, enacting ye olde handicrafts, and performing religious rituals!


Perhaps one of their delegation purchased the Manz brooch as a reverse souvenir before heading home, for it has not surfaced publicly since the photo above was shot for a spread in Town & Country magazine a few months prior to the fair's opening day, April 30, 1904.


Click here to read Professor Milette Shamir's illustrated account of the Jersusalem Exhibit. More about Gustav Manz's jewelry at the fair in our earlier post OLYMPIC DREAMS


Below: A re-creation of Jaffa Gate, Jerusalem, at the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition (St. Louis Public Library)


_________________________________________
We welcome comments, and invite you to follow us on Facebook, Instagram and gustavmanz.com

Copyright © 2016 All Rights Reserved 
GUSTAV MANZ LLC

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

HOMAGE TO LALIQUE



Gold, opal, pearl and diamond cloisonne pendant in the form of two peacocks confronting one another, circa 1901 
Collection of the Metropolitan Museum

In honor of Rene Lalique's day of birth (April 6, 1860), The Met posted an image of this double peacock pendant on Instagram

A peacock regarding its own reflection or kissing its twin (because who else would?) is pretty amusing. But the way the enameling reflects the gem-set tail feathers draped around the opal takes your breath away. 

The jewels Lalique exhibited at the Salon de Paris from the late 19th century until he turned his focus exclusively to glassmaking in the early 20th were widely published for the trade in places like Jewelers' Circular—as in the image below, which appeared on the front page of the August 17, 1898 edition—and were also "a sensation" at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris. 




As a journeyman jeweler in the 1880s before setting up his own business in New York, Gustav Manz (1865-1946) worked in Paris, where he likely saw Lalique's pieces at the Salon or at his shop on rue de Quatre-Septembre. One of the items Manz later recalled when his only granddaughter interviewed him about his accomplishments was the bracelet he'd crafted for Lalique's great muse Sarah Bernhardt (unfortunately no date or descriptive details were preserved). 

The peafowl has strutted its stuff through every era but particularly fascinated jewelers of the Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts period. Manz was no exception. For his take on this flashy creature, check out our earlier post "Birds of a Feather."



A black and white photographic print of an illustration ("Homage") by John Hassall, British watercolorist and advertising artist of the Edwardian period

_________________________________________
We welcome comments, and invite you to follow us on Facebook, Instagram and gustavmanz.com

Copyright © 2016 All Rights Reserved 
GUSTAV MANZ LLC